Haying FAQ

QUESTION:

Why grow hay? I can pick up all I need at $2/bale in the field.

There are at least three good reasons to grow hay:

- as a business;
- because you don't want your meadows and fields to revert to woods, jungle, or desert;
- because you want some control over the quality of the feed you give your livestock, and are willing to trade your labor for a savings in cost.

How do I gather the hay? Is there an alternative to baling?

What does it take to convert my overgrown lot to a hayfield?

ANSWER:

Round bales are a one-person operation. Years ago there were round balers that produced bales of 60-100 pounds. Today, most round balers produce bales of 750-2000 pounds. The bales are either left in the field until they are used, sometimes covered with a machine-applied plastic sleeve and lifted off the ground on old pallets or tires, or they can be moved to a covered storage area with a bale spike on the bucket-loader or three-point hitch of a tractor. Round bales are labor-saving, both in baling and feeding, but even when the bales are stored under cover it is hard to get the same quality hay as small square bales. Recent experiments suggest that the cost of constructing inside storage for round bales can be amortized quickly with the reduction in waste; an alternative, for beef cattle, is to spray the bales with beef tallow. For animals that trample their hay, like sheep, round bales require some thought in designing feeders.

Hard work and patience. Once the field is clear of stones and stumps -- which may require a bulldozer or backhoe and hours of stone-picking -- do a soil test and add lime as needed to bring the pH up to whatever your planned hay crop requires. Lime migrates slowly in soil, so adding more than two tons/acre may require a year or so of alternate crops before the pH is at the required level. Once the pH is where you want it, you can either disc the field or kill the existing vegetation with Round-Up and plant no-till.

A heavy drag behind the disc will help level the field. To control weeds, it sometimes works well to disc and plant an annual crop, like buckwheat, oats, rye, or dwarf rape that you can later disc in, perhaps with a heavy application of manure, before you seed the hay. A dense stand of buckwheat will choke out weeds that would overwhelm your new hay seeding and add to the tilth of your soil when you disc it in; temporary crops like rape, turnips, rye, or oats can provide pasture for animals or a quick cutting of hay while they're helping get the field ready for seeding hay.


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